Weaving bodies and subjects: fashion and gender in the discourses of the city of Recife between 1960 and 1964
Fashion; Genre; Recife; Speech; Sign.
Taking the city of Recife as a backdrop between the years 1960 and 1964, the present research aims to
analyze the relationship between the production of meaning of fashion elements and the constitution of the
notion of subject, considering how the gendered character of fashion signs participates so much in the conception
of the idea of this subject, as they end up delimiting their specificities. To this end, the work was divided
into three parts. The first establishes a theoretical dialogue that intends to understand the genealogy of the
sign as a set of elements circumscribed to a situated knowledge – temporally and especially – and which,
therefore, guides the ways of perceiving and understanding realities. In this sense, it is questioned that,
in addition to the meanings present in fashion deriving from colonial knowledge, the epistemologies commonly
used to understand their dynamics in societies start from the same lens. Taking as a starting point the
Saussurean source of Barthes' semiology (2012), it is intended to extrapolate the limits of language,
pointing out, from the dialogue between Mignolo (2017), Fanon (2008) and Hall (2016), how,
for Sometimes, language reaffirms the subjects it wants to analyze. The second piece aims to understand the
discursive construction of meanings from their locus of enunciation. In this way, to scrutinize how the
meanings of the fashion code are constituted in the first four years of the 1960s in the city of Recife.
This point is part of a movement to claim academic geopolitics, questioning, through historiographical debate,
what is understood and recorded as Brazilian Fashion History, given the centrality of some regions in
this historiographical work. Understanding the socio-political and cultural context of the city in this period,
and relating them to its fashion events, we can infer from what relationships and in what discursive meshes
the subjects are forged. In this way, the third piece aims to point out how, as fashion signs are products of
language, we can conceive that, while they imprint normative aesthetics on bodies, they establish a reference
that creates and reinforces otherness on the margins. This debate is developed from the notion of subject and
identities in Butler (2021), the criticism of the coloniality of being, present in the ideas of gender, addressed by
Oyewumi (2017), and the intersectional perspective in Akotirene (2020), so to perceive certain signs of fashion
as modern colonial devices that reinforce the normative framework and make other ways of being/feeling/living
invisible.